Michele and Drew's Excellent Spanish Adventure: Day trip to Hondarribia

Day Trip to Hondarribia

It's only a 25 minute bus ride away from San Sebastian to this lovely little town on the "fronterra."

I had to laugh when I looked at my Lonely Planet guidebook, in which the town is described as "lethargic." From the "pretty as a picture" marina you look across to Hendaye, on the French side of the Bidasoa river. I love the atmosphere in these little medieval walled cities...from the colorfully painted fisherman's cottages (now home to a very big pinxto bar scene), to charming square near the Cathedral. There is the very expensive "Parador Hondorribia" housed in an old castle that is part of the medieval fortress. We had lunch in the old square by the Parador...a crab filled crepe (French?), and the traditional Basque red peppers stuffed with bacaloa (cod) with bechamel sauce. We were content to admire the Parador's awe inspiring lobby; priced at 250EU a night, it was a bit out of our price range. One of these days we'll splurge on a night or two at one of Spain's historic state owned paradors. I wonder what kind of dreams I will have sleeping in a castle. I shall make a point to find one that has a reputation for being haunted. As you might guess, as a border town, Hondarribia was always at risk of of attack. There were at least 4 major battles fought here with the French. There was a siege in the 1600's in which 27,000 French soldiers fired 16,000 shells at the city. If those old fortress walls, pocked from shell fire could talk...