The end of our stint as "tour guides" in San Sebastian (our favorite day trips)

The end of our stint as tour guides

We saw the last of our visitors leave July 21^st …we enjoyed playing tour guide, but were ready for a little R and R.  I think we had a total of 14 visitors between May 1 and July 21^st.   We took the opportunity to do 2 more little local day trips and I would add them to my list of recommended day trips less than an hour from San Sebastian. 

1.    San Sebastian to “Pasaia” hike

Hike 2.5 hours on trails from SS (start in neighborhood of Gros, ascending trails up Mount Ullia) along ocean bluffs with jaw dropping coastal views and through lush ferny forests, ultimately dropping down into San Pedro (follow signs to Pasaia with red/white trail markers).  Don’t miss the Abaola boat building “museum” to see a classic Basque ship being built in San Pedro. Take the .70 water taxi across the river to San Juan for lunch (my favorite place is to the left toward the mouth of the river…walk through town, and go to the end of road).  Hop on a local bus from San Pedro for 2.35eu and you are back in San Sebastian in 20 min.

2.    Hendaye to Hondarribia

Take the Topo train (also known as the Euskotren) from SS to Hendaye, France (about 35 min).  Exit the little train station and walk towards the river.  It looks industrial and unappealing but don’t worry.  There is an oddly placed elevator down to the water and a river walk of several km. that you follow to the ocean…it will take you to a nice expansive beach (yes, you are in France).  Notice where the marina is…after a visit to the beach, hop on a water taxi in the marina that will take you across the river to the little medieval town of Hondarribia (now you are in Spain).  Heading straight inland off the dock, go to the area with the colorfully trimmed “fisherman’s houses” and have a fabulous pintxo at Bar Gran Sol.  My favorite is the Jaizkibel.  Then walk up to the medieval walled part of the town to Plaza de Armas for a café con leche, or cerveza.  Walk the little narrow streets and find cool hotels like the Obispo, and secret little restaurants and bars.  If you have a coffee at the Parador in Plaza de Armas, you can see the inside of this historic medieval fortress that is now a hotel.  The last time I was there a movie crew was filming inside the parador courtyard.  A cool outdoor elevator behind the parador takes you down and out of the medieval part of town.  Turn right and you hit the bus stop that takes you back to San Sebastian, about 30 minutes. 

3.    Walk from Zauratz to Getaria

This is such a pretty walk.  Take the Topo train to Zauratz…it’s only about 40 minutes or so.  Walk around town a bit, have an ice cream or a café con leche, and then start walking out of town along the coast.  There is a sidewalk and stainless steal railing that goes about 6km to Getaria.  As you near Getaria you will see a monument to a Basque sailor Juan Sebastian Elcano, the first person to circumnavigate the world (google it if you are convinced it was Magellan).  Getaria is also a cute little medieval town with hidden corners to explore.  There are lots of places to eat around the church and by the waterfront.  You can take a bus back to SS, or just walk back to Zauratz like we did because it is such a nice walk…oh, check out how the local version of a pool…check out the tree trunk, and height these kids are jumping from. 

4.    St. Jean de Luz

Probably the best way to go to this cute town is to take a direct bus from SS to St. Jean de Luz.  An alternative way is to take the Topo train from SS to Hendaye (35 min), and then hop on a local French bus just in front of the train station.  I think they come every 40 min, but I don’t remember exactly.  It drops you off at the train station in San Jean de Luz.  Or you can take the Topo train from SS and hop on an even less frequent train to SJL…look up schedules online ahead of time for best use of time and mode of transport.  St. Jean de Luz was historically a really important whaling port, and also was a base for the famous French Corsairs who worked under the protection of the French crown.  The rest of the world thought of them as privateers or  pirates (think Johnny Depp).  They were meant to attack English and Spanish vessels and shared the spoils with the French crown.  It’s a bit touristic, but still charming, and I personally like it better than Biarritz (which has a bit more upscale feel).  We visited the church where Louis XIV married his double first cousin Maria Theresa of Spain (negotiated to create peace between France and Spain).