Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Dec 22-29th Christmas with Old Friends and Family reunion





Having a merry Christmas
1982 H.S. graduation - Diana looks exactly the same!
Dec 22-29th
Christmas with Old Friends and Family reunion
Germany…the first week with our “own wheels” since leaving the US in August.
Enjoying a snowy walk
A magical snowy walk in the woods
Tiny chapel, well cared for
The cost to rent a car from the airport in Luxembourg, where we landed was quite expensive.  Instead we opted to make our way to Trier (about 25 miles) using public transport and rent a car from there.  We’ve found that initiating a rental from a smaller town and returning to a large airport (Bonn-Cologne airport) is often a real bargain (150 Euros from Trier, returning to Bonn Airport vs. 450 from Luxembourg).  We spent Christmas with my wonderful friend Diana, whom I’ve known since middle school in WI.  Diana, Helmut, and their 3 kids live in a picturesque small town in the Eiffel, a hilly, volcanic, heavily forested region with rivers and lakes in abundance.  Diana did exactly what her mother told her not to do…fall in love with a German while on a Fulbright scholarship in Germany 25 years ago.  Of course, her mother did the same with an American several decades before.  Things have a way of coming full circle.  This has become kind of a “theme” in my life, and certainly a theme on this trip. We spent 5 days enjoying each others company, peeling vegetables, playing games, taking walks together; the house was full of happy people, with Diana’s family, niece, nephew, and brother in law, there were 10 of us all together.  Diana made it look easy, cooking us feast after feast, always with a smile on her face.  Events of the week included: cutting the tree in the forest, carrying it home with the tractor, Andrea and I decorating it together, attending midnight mass in a medieval monastery (lights low, incense permeating the air), singing carols around the Christmas tree by candlelight in English and German, daily walks in the fresh air and SNOW.  One afternoon Drew and I set out to explore and within minutes found ourselves at Murlenbach Castle, one of several places thought to be the possible birthplace of Charlemagne(c.742-814) Christian king of the Frankish Germanic tribes, that eventually conquered the pagan Saxon Germanic tribes.  He was made Holy Roman Emperor under Pope Leo III, and ruled from Aachen, Germany.  He has been called “the father of Europe.” (http://www.history.com/topics/charlemagne).

Andrea, Judith, Diana, and Michele
Cozy Christmas
On the 27th we said farewell to our friends, and headed to Kirf.  This was a trip I had been anticipating for 1.5 years.

Here is a little background information:

Several years earlier I decided to digitize 1500 of my dad’s old slides that he had stored in an old military trunk, to create a CD for him to enjoy.  I asked him to explain some of the slides…who were these people in Europe?  I knew nothing of the family history.  My great grandfather who left Germany in 1880 never returned, but kept in touch by mail.   In 1953 my dad was doing his army stint in Germany.  He decided to search for these distant family relatives, using an address on an old letter.  He showed his military ID to the people who opened the door.  They welcomed him with open arms, seeing he was a relative, gave him schnapps, and took him to a cemetery.  He couldn’t speak German and they could not speak English.  Unfortunately 60 years later, my dad didn’t remember names of people or specific places.  However, coincidentally, at about the same time a heretofore, unknown cousin from Texas, who had been deep into family genealogy, contacted the Milwaukee branch (our family), and shared some very interesting information.  He had created a virtual book of information with town names, old letters, and a genealogy chart dating back to the 1700’s. 

Feels like we are back in Wisconsin
snow is coming
Wow!  From green to white overnight
In the summer of 2013, while visiting Diana, we decided to go on a mission to see if we could find these blood relatives.  With Diana acting as translator and fearless “door knocker,” we made our way to the tiny village of Biebelhausen, where we stopped a postman.  He gave us a lead, pointing to a house 50 meters away.  Within 5 minutes we were talking to a “Jacoby”… my great great grandfather’s brother in law’s family.  He remembered as a boy going the “Düro” family house in the nearby village of Kirf with his mother.  He also knew a direct descendent and promised to give her (Martina) my e-mail address.  He then directed us to the “family house” location from memory in Kirf.  He told us we were lucky we came when we did, as he was moving to Luxembourg in a few months.
serene 
We drove to the even tinier village of Kirf, knocked on the door and were greeted by octogenarian, Edmund.  Diana explained who I was.  Boy was he surprised.  He thought the family name had completely died out.   He explained that his wife was a Düro, and the last male Düro, her brother, died in WWII just at the very end of the war.  He promised to pass my e-mail address on to his son Peter.  He lived in the “Düro” house that dated back to “1741.”  He pointed out the keystone with the date and carving of Bacchus god of wine, holding a cluster of grapes.  He said the family had always had vines and made their own wine.  This intrigued me…could the very un-German name (the name of a river, and famous wine region in Spain) be somehow connected to the Roman roots of the area (Nearby Trier is the oldest city in Germany, and was inhabited by the Romans over 2000yrs ago)?  Before the end of the evening, I was contacted by both “distant cousins!”  It was too late to meet with them, but I told them to do their homework, dig through old photos and papers, and I would be back in 2014 to meet them.
In the meantime I e-mailed them my dads old photos, and asked if they could identify any of the people in the photos.  Peter and I were both really surprised…the woman next to the tombstone in one of the photos was his mother!  Apparently Peter’s mom played tour guide to my dad when he was in Germany.

So…there we were Dec 27th  2014, driving to Kirf in deep anticipation.  We were going to complete the circle.  Peter invited us to dinner and to spend the night.  Peter’s, and Martina’s families, and 86yo Edmund, sharp as a tack and fit as a fiddle attended.  I scanned the photos and documents Martina brought, and asked lots of questions.  We determined that Peter, Martina and I are 3rd cousins.  It was a rich evening, and we were made to feel so at home.  Peter and his wife converted the old barn into a beautiful home, maintaining the old world charm, but creating a home that is really a work of art.  Unfortunately no ghosts visited me that night.  I slept like a rock. 
Our wonderful hosts
coming full circle...Kirf
The following day Peter and Edmund took us to Kirf’s church, and described to us how it “used to be”…after church all the men would go to the tavern.  It was the center of social life.  Now the tavern is gone, all these small towns are losing their shops, and services, and becoming more like suburbs of Luxembourg (which is too expensive for even most Luxembourgers to live). We went to the cemetary, and looked at local war monuments (scanning the names).  Edmund told us that prior to WWII the town of Kirf had a large Jewish population (I learned that Jews came to the area in the 1600’s).   Most left just prior to WWII as the writing was on the wall.  Peter’s Grandfather (mom’s dad) had been the town’s mayor before the war, and was forced to step down, as he, like most Rhinelanders, did not support the Nazi party.  They supported Catholic Center party.  Apparently it was only after Hitler abolished all other parties, that the Nazis got a hold over Rhineland, and I recently heard that Kirf never actually did vote Nazi (wonder if it’s true, and if so how it was avoided).  Peter and Edmund took us to several places related to WWII, including the abandoned remains of a “road” of concrete barriers, now covered in moss, put in place by slave labor to keep American tanks from crossing into Germany (I don’t know if it worked).  They took us to the site of a war monument near the border where a horrible winter battle was fought.  It was bitterly cold; we stood there shivering, imagining how those poor soldiers had to not only fight their enemies, but had to fight the weather to survive.  This region is on the “cider trail”, close to Remich(Lux) on the Moselle River, and is very picturesque area, popular for biking.  It is hard to imagine how this piece of heaven must have been transformed into a kind of “hell” during wartime.  Peter later took us on a tour of nearby Saarburg, a gorgeous little town on the Saar River, known for its Reisling wine.  We climbed to the top of the ruins of a 10th century castle for a view of the town, which dates back to the 1200’s.  Peter invited us back in the summer…so much more to see, do explore, you bet we’ll be back! 
Kirf church


Helmshen and Dianshen
















shelf fungi and moss 

yippee snow!





Saarburg



View from Peter's back window


I know there are fairies here!
Add caption



Peter and I in Saarburg
View from top of Castle- Saarburg


Ruins of 10 century castle- Saarburg
View from top of Castle- Saarburg



green and white
first snow after Christmas
Kirf
war monument in Kirf
map of Saar region
Saar River scenic route

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